Outstanding wines from Bolgheri in Italy

The wine map of Tuscany has changed dramatically in the past thirty to forty years. Back then the focal points were Chianti Classico and its peripheral sub-zones, and the twin hilltop towns of Montalcino, for Brunello, and Montepulciano for Vino Nobile. What lay beyond, the untapped land of the Maremma, was a rural backwater. In Bolgheri, Sassicaia stood virtually alone, while Ornellaia was a mere building site.

Bolgheri over the past years has established a firm place on the international wine map for some of the most successful Bordeaux blends outside the Gironde. Sassicaia, a highly successful blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, was the pacesetter, under the auspices of a powerful combination of personalities. Sassicaia made its mark as one of the very first Italian wines to be aged in small French barriques rather than the large traditional botti, made of Slavonic oak.

The climate is warmer and more clement than in the heart of Tuscany, and grapes ripen here much more easily than in the hills of Chianti Classico. There is now a whole raft of wines from the Maremma region, including Bolgheri, which are produced mainly from Bordeaux grape varieties and are often referred to as the ‘Super Tuscans’. Sassicaia is undoubtedly the best known worldwide, but at prices of several hundred pound per bottle, depending on vintage, it is in a league of its own and certainly outside most consumers’ budget.

Other Super Tuscans are, however, still not cheap, but are within the realms of reality and hugely enjoyable. One such producer is Campo Alla Sughera based at Castagneto Carducci in the Bolgheri DOC. The producer’s philosophy is to pursue oenological perfection through expression of the terroir, natural processes and rigorous management both in the vineyards and the winery. An excerpt from the producer’s own information, perfectly illustrates the high quality of these wines: “In the beginning, we wanted to understand the land of Bolgheri: we looked carefully and saw the sea. Our land is a place filled with extraordinary natural elements: the marly soil that is rich in minerals; the sea which decisively influences the area's microclimate; and time, which allows the evolution of our wines. To bring the life and energy of Bolgheri to the world, we do nothing but support these forces through the management of the vineyards (microterroir), the selection of the grapes (triple selection) and the production of our wines (use of gravity, microvinifications). The result is a rich expressive range of this land: Campo alla Sughera, IGT Toscana Rosso, Arnione, Bolgheri DOC Superiore, Adèo, Bolgheri DOC Rosso.”

Adèo Bolgheri Rosso 2021 is made from 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. Aged 12 months in French oak, this is a rich, intense, complex red, with mellow tannins and good length. Around £31 per bottle from online specialists. Arnione Bolgheri Superiore 2019 is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, but also with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot and aged for 18 months in French oak Barriques. A stunning wine, with intensity and energy, powerful yet approachable, with elegance and complexity. Around £47 online.

The ultimate and outstanding wine from this producer is Campo Alla Sughera Toscana IgT 2020. 70% Petit Verdot and 24 months in oak create a big, powerful, structured wine with tremendous finesse, depth and length. A special occasion treat. £65 per bottle.