Dreaming of a white Christmas?

At this time of year, Portugal’s most famous wine – namely port – is on many people’s radar, but Portuguese white wines don’t naturally spring to mind. Overshadowed by the fabulous red wines, both dry and sweet, there is a wide variety of whites whose quality has come on leaps and bounds in the past 20 years.

One such is Esporão Monte Velho Branco Alentejano 2021 from the Herdade de Esporão in the hot Alentejo region, established in the thirteenth century. It is a wonderful blend of indigenous grape varieties which most people, even in the wine trade, have never heard of – Antão Vaz, Roupeiro and Perrum. Some of the vines are over 40 years old, adding significantly to the quality profile of the resultant wine. Intense flavours of melon and ripe peach, with good citrus balancing acidity. A great aperitif or with seared tuna steak or roll-mop herrings. £8.95 from The Wine Society.

Another white with great intensity comes from the Villa Maria stable in New Zealand. Seaspray Sauvignon Blanc 2021 is a single vineyard wine from the Marlborough region, near the rugged eastern coastline of the Awatere Valley. Cooled by ocean breezes, the sauvignon grapes develop slowly, resulting in great power and intensity of flavour, with a combination of fresh acidity, herbaceous, citrus and gentle tropical fruit. Very different to most Marlborough Sauvignons, this is a racy dry white perfect for all fish and seafood dishes, with the concentration to match both lighter and stronger flavours. £13.99 mix six price from Majestic.

For more traditional Christmas whites, there is no better region than that of Burgundy. Chardonnay reigns supreme here, from Chablis in the north to Macon in the south. One of my favourites is the slightly lesser-known Saint Véran. One of the best is produced by the outstanding burgundy producer Louis Jadot based in Beaune and established since 1859. Vinified in stainless steel tanks, this is a fresh, dry white with considerable elegance and finesse. Hints of stone fruit and melted butter, with a subtle hazelnut character and long finish. Perfect for roast turkey, chicken or ham. £18 from Tesco (£2 off with clubcard until 4th December!).

Another white burgundy from a more central part of the region is Septembre Chardonnay 2020 from Maison Edouard Delaunay. Very different from the previous wine, this is oak-aged chardonnay, producing a fuller, creamier and deeper textured wine. The choice of the Orient Express and many fine restaurants in the past, the company has recently been acquired by Edouard’s great grandson, restoring the business to its former glory. Great value at £13.99 mix six price from Majestic. Pair with lobster thermidor, garlic prawns or roast honey-glazed gammon.

Although clearly not a white wine, Maison Edouard Delaunay also produce a twin to the Chardonnay - Septembre Pinot Noir from the classic Burgundian red variety. With grapes sourced from both the Cote de Beaune and Cote de Nuits, this is a fresh yet complex wine with typical flavours and aromas of raspberry, strawberry and red cherry, from one of burgundy’s fast rising producers. Rack of lamb or duck fillets would pair a treat. £14.99 mix six from Majestic. A white Christmas, with a touch of festive red!