Top tips for insulating your loft

LAGGING an uninsulated loft could save you around £145 a year on your fuel bills, according to the Energy Saving Trust, so act now before another cold snap sets in. Start by examining the floor joists and roof timbers in your loft for things like damp and woodworm. If you spot anything that concerns you, call in an expert, unless you’re confident you can do the work yourself.

Mineral-wool loft insulation can irritate the skin and eyes (unless encased in silver foil), so you’ll need to wear gloves, goggles, a dust mask and overalls when handling it - follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Eco alternatives are much better, such as insulation made from sheep’s wool or recycled newspapers or plastic bottles.

Measure your loft’s floor joists and try to get insulation that’s the same width to avoid having to do lots of cutting and fitting, and when joining lengths, make sure you butt the edges together. For awkward spaces and irregularly spaced joists, insulation granules make life easier because you just pour them in.

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The recommended depth for mineral-wool insulation is 270mm, but that can change from material to material, so check the packaging or with the manufacturer if you’re not using mineral wool. You don’t have to start from scratch if you already have loft insulation in place - just put the new stuff on top. Leave a gap of around 25mm between the eaves and insulation to let air circulate, and also around things like recessed ceiling lights. Any wiring should be placed on top of the insulation to stop it from getting too hot.

The loft hatch can get particularly cold, so cut a piece of insulation to fit, put it in a bin bag to keep it neat and tidy, and fix it to the back of the hatch. If your loft isn’t boarded, lay down some boards before starting to insulate so you don’t risk falling through the ceiling.